If you’re thinking of hiking up Trolltunga mountain in Norway then you need to stop thinking and just do it! It was one of the most incredible things I’ve done – the views are breathtaking to the point that words can’t explain and if you’re worried the hike will be so hard it will ruin it – don’t be put off, it was actually quite fun. And as they say, life’s too short to do it ‘someday’ so get booking..
I’d love to explore the rest of Norway soon but the point of this trip for us was just to hike Trolltunga so we spent all our time in Odda and Bergen. Whilst I did have the best time, the trip was far from easy to plan and logistics were a bit of a nightmare so hopefully this post will make things a bit easier for you if you plan to go!
We stayed in the ‘official’ Trolltunga Hotel, however it is actually a hostel. Norway it seems, or at least where we stayed in Odda, don’t seem to do ‘hotels’ as we know them. But that was fine for what we wanted. Myself, my brother and my sister had a private room for 3, with 3 single beds, 3 lamps and 3 plugs and that was pretty much it! The hallway (of about 6 rooms) had a shared bathroom and showers (split male/female) so it was a pretty typical hostel (though the nicer end of the spectrum) if you’ve ever stayed in one. The reception and restaurant staff at Trolltunga Hotel were all very friendly, helpful and accommodating and the food in the restaurant was really nice. So all in all I would definitely recommend if you’re just looking for something basic. Also it’s worth noting this is where the Trolltunga pre-hike talk takes place, in the lobby of the hotel so you need to be near this if you don’t opt to stay here.
Well, Norway’s transport.. what can I say. If we think it’s bad in the UK, it’s a dream compared to the transport situation in Norway! From Bergen airport we had to get over to Odda, where we were staying and where Trolltunga mountain is. First of all noone in Norway takes taxi’s – they’re too expensive. When we were discussing our options with reception and I suggested a taxi they just dismissed it saying no, no too expensive. We looked up our route from the airport online – this was difficult enough as there was no official route or website to help (CityMapper would have been a dream!). We found ‘rometorio’ which was the most *only* helpful website as it gives you routes and different options down to the number of the bus you need to catch – just make sure you check the timetables for specific days. Once we worked it out we found we had to get to the port before getting a 2 hour ferry and then 2 separate buses to the hotel. (The mountain is obviously ‘up in the mountains’ so we were prepared for a long stint from the airport.)
On your return check the bus and ferry times before. We left on a Sunday and there was only 2 buses, one early am and one late pm. Due to a confusing timetable we missed the morning bus to the ferry and we had to get a taxi – this was a half hour journey and cost £150. We made it in time for the ferry by the skin of our teeth and as there was only 1 ferry that day we would have missed our flight had we not made it, so stress levels were definitely at a high!
From Bergen city centre there is a bus terminal north of the city centre – from the port keep walking straight up past the fountains (which you can see in this photo!) – 15 minute walk – and you’ll find it to your right. The bus is cheap, quick and airconned.
When we booked the ferry (FYI this isn’t necessary – you can buy a ticket on board) we booked it to leave from Flesland kai. Don’t do this! It’s the closest port/quai to the airport but you are much better getting the ferry from Bergen city centre. The buses from the airport to the port are timed to match the ferry times leaving from Bergen city centre (this bus is free with your ferry ticket) if you go from Flesland kai you will have to get a taxi (our first mistake). The ferry’s are very few and far between – 2 per day so it’s worth booking your flight to roughly match up with the ferry time. The website rometorio will let you know which bus it is you need to get on.
Trolltunga Mountain Hike Prep
We took with us around 6 energy gels each, 4 protein bars. We then made 4 sandwiches each (for guys I would suggest 6!) This sounds like a crazy amount of food/energy but we all ate all of it! Make sure you have a decent breakfast before too. You won’t get back until around 8pm or later depending on your speed/group so you need enough food for the whole day!
In terms of what to wear it massively depends on the weather. We went at the beginning of June and were so lucky with the weather – it was around 20 degrees and sunny although we were told usually it is still a lot cooler at this point. I wore gym leggings and a vest top whilst my sister and brother wore shorts and a t-shirt. If anything I was a little warm. I took a spare pare of socks to change at the top of Trolltunga, this helps stop getting blisters from water/sweat/snow getting in your boots and causing them to rub.
They advise to take a jumper for the top of the mountain however if it is the same weather we had, you won’t need this! I took a thin Gymshark jacket and I didn’t need it at all.
In terms of fitness prep, I do have a good level of fitness (read about my fitness routine here) so I didn’t need to do much training. I was walking on max incline on a tredmill at the gym for half an hour at a time or until I got bored before I went. I would say if you can do this fairly comfortably, you’ll be fine.
As you can see by the photos it’s well worth it – I couldn’t recommend it more.